Thursday, September 3, 2009

going flat

I usually prefer clothes which are sewn in three‐dimensional shape to those sewn in cut&paste-and-stay-flat style, just because flat clothes hardly fit me or fit me wrong more than half the time. However, I've been interested in the fact that the very flat clothes can be occasionally charming by their characteristic silhouette and style. Simple flat garments cause cramped fabric here, and excess there, and the flatness usually makes clothes unstylish plus uncomfortable, but lately I realized that it also gives the clothes their lives in some way. Flat clothes can look original and good! (I hope you manage to understand what I mean.) Naturally, ideas for flat clothing started growing in my mind, so I let it go.

Here are three very flat clothes which I made in the past few months. They are all made of jersey. I haven't found the way to give prettiness to the flat garments using woven plain fabrics not yet at all. I think I leave it for the experts. Jersey is easier to handle to approach very flat clothes for non-experts, that's for sure.

1. Not-so-hoody top

T shirt
pale blue T
*please click this photo to open the Flickr page to see it all.

This top has a seam on the middle of the back. Two holes were cut out for arms. Neckline, armholes and waist hemline were finished by binding with the folded fabric. The heap behind the head looks like a hood, but it's not functioning. It's ... just there for amusing you.
I mimicked the shape of a pullover in my favorite knit book "A/T creation-knit" from NIHON VOGUE-SHA Co., Ltd. for this top. (The book has been unfortunately discontinued for ages.)

2. SAKI's shrug



My friend SAKI (bloom at BurdaStyle) wore this charming shrug the other day and of course I couldn't help asking her to show me how to make it. I look like a flying squirrel in it because it has those flaps! I think this shrug varies upon the fabric very much. If very delicate fabric is used, it would be very elegant. Mine looks somehow similar to a school uniform of gymnastic class, but it's OK because I love the whole package of it.

3. Gilet

gilet on dress

I don't know why, but those Japanese in the fashion industry started calling this garment 'Gilet' instead of 'Vest' suddenly. This is very ostensible change that makes me laugh, but I'd like to call my one gilet, as it might make mine slightly more fashionable.
This gilet has a huge hole in the middle, and that's it. Very flat. I put a binding strip on the edge of the jointed armhole for a neat looking and it's stability, and also finished the hem by overlocking around. One Japanese blogger kindly shared her handmade gilet with the size, and I followed it. I quite like the result, it hangs very well and shows beautiful drapes only on human. Very dramatic!


Enjoy sewing!


(I found it on mars' blog)


my armhole binding

SAKI(bloom at BurdaStyle)'s shrug




for not-so-hoody top



  1. It's so beutiful :) I love "saki's shrug". Could you write the basic rectangle dimension for it?

  2. The "gilet" looks really nice with pants! I might try it someday.
    This and the shrug look like pieces I saw in some japanese sewing books.

    About the word: gilet is a french word which can mean two things: it can refer to either a vest or a cardigan. I don't know why they started using the french word, but at least there is a reason why it's gilet and not something else. ^^

    By the way, it might be the fist time I comment here, so I'd like to say that I've been following your blog since I found it some time ago, and I really enjoy reading it. I like the things you create and the way you talk about sewing.

  3. all the pieces look great!
    I especially love the "gilet". could you explain further how to make it?

  4. These are all beautiful despite their simplicity. It would be very cool if you could do a tutorial on one of them.

  5. I like Saki s shrug. Can you please add measurements, I d love to make it.

  6. Thank you for your comments, everybody!
    I've added the links to the pictures that show the dimensions of Gilet and SAKI's shrug. As I told you, the idea and the sizes were introduced to me by mars and SAKI, respectively.
    By the way, I'm 166cm tall and they fit me well.
    I hope it will be helpful for making yours!

  7. Oh I should have told you that the links to the pictures are at the end of the post. They are not perfect instruction, but I rely on your imagination!

  8. I have got to try the shrug or the vest! The vest is cute, but I'm not sure it would get as much wear.

  9. I love all of your stuff!! love the vest!
    I want to try making your "Not-so-hoody top" but can you tell me the measurements of the square and the arem hole and the neckline? I think I am the same size as you! I clicked on the pictures but it didn't have the measurments! I'd be so greatful!!

  10. Hi, thank you for leaving your comments!
    BebeMini, I don't have the book I referred with me at the moment, but I'll try to upload the measurements for you as soon as the book is returned. Thanks!

  11. at first I was a bit confused with the term 'flat' (for I'm not really a seamstress)..
    yet looking at your pretty pictures and clear instruction links gave me the complete image!
    thanks for sharing :)


  12. Hi Yoshmimi

    I just wanted to drop by and say that I have been following your blog for over a year and find it really inspiring. You are very talented. Also that I had a go at making a version of the gilet
    (this is a link to the post:
    It was just an experiment this time but I will definitely be making it again. Thanks so much for sharing.


Thank you for your comments!!